Water tank sealing for ground and roof tanks
We empty the tank and take its surface back to sound substrate, repair the cracks, the floor to wall joint and the pipe entries, then build the lining up on the face the water actually touches, and sterilise before it goes back into service.
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Targeted, not broadcast
Product goes into cracks and runways, never sprayed across open surfaces.
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Told before we start
What we will use, where it goes, and what to cover or move before we arrive.
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A follow-up visit
We return after the first treatment, because what survives it does not show on the day.
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Homes and businesses
Apartments and villas, and kitchens and stores that need a record of each visit.
Why a lining fails and the leak comes back
Three reasons, and all three turn up in tanks that have been lined before.
It went on the wrong face
The water pushes outwards. A coat on the outer face has that pressure working to lift it off the wall, however sound it looks in the first month.
Nothing bonds through sediment
A settled layer, algal film or a damp substrate stops the coating gripping. It lets go within months, and the flakes end up in the water it was meant to protect.
The leak is at the joint
Most of the loss is at the floor to wall junction and around the pipe entries. Coating the whole wall changes nothing while that joint is still open.
What we read before any material is opened
Six things we look at with the tank drained and dry, and each one changes the material or the order of the work.
Cracking in the wall
A surface craze disappears under the coats, but a crack that goes through is opened and filled first, because a lining is a thin membrane and will not bridge a void.
The floor to wall joint
The most common place for water to leave, and it takes a coved fillet rather than a flat coat, because a sharp corner splits the lining as the structure moves.
The condition of the old lining
Blistering or peeling means it never bonded, so it comes off back to sound substrate instead of being painted over.
Sediment and scale
Fine sand and scale arrive with the supply itself and say nothing about how a place is kept, and no lining bonds through them, so removal always comes first.
The pipe entries
Inlet, outlet and overflow move differently from the wall they pass through, so each one is sealed around its collar before the wall is coated.
The hatch and the vent
A loose cover or an unscreened vent lets dust and insects in, and daylight is what starts algae, so both are dealt with while the tank is open.
How the visit runs
Four steps, and the order is not optional: no lining coat grips a surface that was not prepared first.
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1
Inspect with the tank empty
We drain it and read the surface dry: whether the water leaves through a crack, a joint or a pipe collar, and what the outer face of the wall and the ceiling below are telling us. A level test with the valves closed separates a leaking tank from leaking pipework.
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2
Clean and prepare the substrate
Sediment out, a high pressure wash, the loose old lining and the weak surface layer of the concrete taken back, then dried. The material grips sound substrate and nothing else.
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3
Make the cracks and joints good
Cracks are chased out and filled with a repair mortar, a cove is formed where the floor meets the wall, and every pipe collar is treated on its own.
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4
Lining, fill test, sterilisation
Successive coats, each run across the one beneath it, on the face the water touches. Then a full cure, a fill with the level watched, and sterilisation with the first fill run to waste before the tank returns to use.
What water tank sealing includes
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Finding where the water leaves
Carried out drained and dry: cracks, joints, pipe collars and the outer face of the wall.
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Draining and sediment removal
The last of the water and the settled layer on the floor come out, because a lining does not stick over sediment.
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Cracks and joints made good
The crack opened and filled, a cove formed at the floor to wall junction, and each pipe entry worked separately.
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Lining coats on the water face
More than one coat, each crossing the one below, in material made for drinking water tanks rather than roof waterproofing.
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Curing, fill test and sterilisation
The material is left to cure, the tank is filled and the level watched, then sterilised and the first fill run to waste. How long the cure takes follows the material and the weather, and we tell you before the date so you can plan around the supply.
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A follow-up level check
We come back once it is in service to read the level and check the outer face, because any remaining loss shows up then rather than on the day of the work.
Exactly where the product goes
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1
Inside joints, not on surfaces
Bait goes into a cabinet joint or a gap behind an appliance, in dots the size of a match head, in places no hand reaches and nothing touches in ordinary use.
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2
Away from where food is
Nothing is sprayed on preparation surfaces, inside food cupboards, or across open floor in living rooms and bedrooms.
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3
A little preparation first
Cover dishes, move water bowls. We give you the ventilation time for your treatment on the call, rather than a general number printed on a page.
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4
Tell us the exceptions
Asthma, an allergy or a pregnancy in the home changes the product choice and the order of the visit. It is a change we make often and it does not delay the appointment.
Our work
What customers say on Google
Excellent, quick service. They dealt with the problem on the first visit and came back afterwards to check.
Translated from the Arabic original.
Respectful team, they kept to the appointment, and they explained what they used and which places they had treated.
Translated from the Arabic original.
Honestly the best company I have dealt with. They kept to the time and the result was clear from the first visit.
Translated from the Arabic original.
We cover Jeddah and Makkah
Every district has its own page for this service. Tap yours.
Common questions
How do I know the tank needs sealing?
The clearest sign is a level that drops with the valves closed. Shut the outlet in the evening and mark the level; if it has fallen by morning with nothing drawn off, the loss is the tank and not the plumbing. After that: a damp patch or a white salt bloom on the outside of the wall or on the ceiling below it, and flakes of old lining floating in the water.
Why did the leak come back after it was sealed before?
Usually one of three things. The coating went on the outer face, where water pressure works to lift it off the wall. Or it went over sediment and damp, so it never bonded at all. Or the wall was coated while the floor joint and the pipe collars, which is where the water was actually leaving, were left alone. How the old layer has failed tells us which one before we propose anything.
Is sealing enough, or does the tank also need cleaning and sterilising?
Sealing begins with draining and cleaning, because nothing bonds to sediment or algae, and it ends with sterilisation, because preparing a surface leaves dust inside the tank. If the tank is sound and not losing water, what you actually need is Water tank cleaning followed by Water tank sterilization, with no lining at all.
There is a visible crack losing water. Is that repaired before the lining?
Yes, and that order is the difference between work that holds and work that comes back. A through or live crack is opened out, filled and left to set before any coat goes near it, because a lining follows the surface, it does not close a gap. That part of the job is on Tank leak repair.
Is the material suitable for drinking water?
We use material intended for drinking water tanks. Roof waterproofing such as bitumen does not go inside a potable tank: it is not made for that use and it carries into the taste. Once the lining has fully cured the tank is washed, sterilised, and the first fill is run to waste before anyone drinks from it.
Mine is a fibreglass roof tank. Is the work different?
It is. A concrete tank takes coats that grip the concrete itself. A plastic or fibreglass tank usually leaks at a moulding seam or around a fitting, and that point is repaired rather than the whole inside being coated. Panel tanks lose water at the joints and gaskets between panels, which is a different inspection and different kit.
What does water tank sealing cost?
It is set after the inspection, because the figure follows the size and type of tank, whether an old lining has to come off back to sound substrate, how many cracks and joints need work, and how much room the hatch gives us to work in. Send the tank dimensions and photos of the inside and the outer face on WhatsApp and we will give you an estimate before the visit, then confirm it once we have seen it.
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Tank leak repair